The Aussie Kehl's Life: 3 weeks from Home to 80 Mile Beach

July 2019

Three weeks north for some warmth. Jurg, Gian-Luca and myself. Neesabella stayed in Perth looking for work, she is now living at Dad's place. 3 weeks 6500km+


Shire of Murchison

We stopped the first night out of Perth North on the Carnarvon-Mullewa Road (about 800km our first day - got to get out of the city !) heading towards Gascoyne Junction.

We love having a fire - it is not 'real' camping unless you do.

First Sunrise

An old water trough and well, fully restored.

We all need to give thanks to local communities that restore and maintain these early days of Australia.

Just out of North Plantations on the Gascoyne River

We decided to camp right on the river.

As you can see we also decided to only bring the swags on this trip.

We made a quick stop in Carnarvon to pick up cheaper supplies before we head north again.

We did make our usual (next) stop at Waroona Station - but I sadly neglected to take a photo.

Onslow

we then continued our way up the North West Coastal Highway to Onslow. We didn't go up to Onslow when we were on the bus trip in 2012. Jurg has been here before with the boys diving. So we have arrived with the hope of Jurg being able to get a dive in with the local diving boys. Our first night it rained for us, even though the swags are waterproof there was a mad dash to get our swags under the orning we have on the trailer.

No hope for the first couple of days of diving, blame it on the moon &tide and the local divers working, so Gian-Luca and Jurg got some fishing done in the Kayaks

We need lunch !

Crocodile flathead or something.

Old Onslow. This is the old gaol, courthouse and the police station and quarters.

Onslow is a sleepy little town where people go to fish and to have quiet holidays by the sea. Historically it was created as a mixture of pearling, farming and gold mining, but today, in part because it lies on the coast 82 km from the main North West Coastal Road, it is a true Cinderella - a gorgeous coastal retreat where only those who know of its charms tend to divert from the long journey from Perth to Broome. It has become known as 'Cyclone City' as, since its establishment in 1883, it has experienced major cyclones in 1909, 1918, 1926, 1934, 1953, 1958, 1961, 1962, 1963, 1975, 1995 and 1999. The 1963 cyclone had winds which were measured at 232 km/h. In fact, the cyclones have occurred with such regularity that they have had profound effects on the town - it was forced to relocate after the 1926 cyclone and the frequency of cyclones in the 1960s forced the reconstruction of the local jetty to be abandoned. (https://www.aussietowns.com.au/town/onslow-wa)

Dad met us in Onslow and he, Gian-Luca and I drove to Old Onslow for the day to visit the old buildings - or what is left

Termite nests and a serious son.

Jurg's catch for the day. I remember the green fish is called Blue Bone. (Rankin Cod, Spangled Emperor and Red Emperor)

We left Onslow late after fish cleaning and taking lots of the fish and Painted Crayfish with us to eat. So for lunch for the next couple days we would stop and have a cooked lunch of fresh fish and for dinner too - very spoilt, thank you to the Onslow boys for loading us up with fish.

Pannawonica is a closed iron ore mining town in the Pilbara.

Pannawonica is one of the many iron ore mining towns in the Pilbara which was built specifically to house mine workers and their families. Built and owned by Robe River Iron Associates (once known as Cliffs Robe River Iron Associates and now owned by Rio Tinto), Pannawonica provides services and housing for those miners and their families involved in the open cut mining of iron ore in the Robe River valley. Constructed in 1970 and gazetted in 1972, Pannawonica is known as a 'closed town'. There are currently around 600 people employed by Rio Tinto in the Robe Valley. Most of the people working at Mesa J mine live in Pannawonica. Most of the people working at Mesa A mine are fly-in, fly-out workers who live in an onsite camp.
(https://www.aussietowns.com.au/town/pannawonica-wa-2)

Boot Tree
It has become an amusing local tradition for people, when they are leaving the town permanently (as happens with mining towns), to throw their boots up onto the Boot Tree. The tree now has hundreds of boots hanging from the branches. It is located on the road from the North West Coastal Highway (Highway 1) and the town.

Pannawonica Hill

It is claimed that the word 'pannawonica' which the local Aborigines used to describe a nearby hill, actually translates as 'the hill which came from the sea'. The story is that two local Aboriginal tribes were arguing over the ownership of the hill which was located by the sea. The sea spirit decided to resolve the dispute by moving the hill inland. As the hill was dragged over the land it left a deep indentation which became the Robe River. The hill was named by a surveyor in 1885.

From Pannawonica we drove due east to Milstream Chichester National Park.

Jurg and Gian-Luca got in and had a swim.

Millstream Chichester National Park
Located on the Warlu Road and 97 km from Pannawonica (only the road from Karratha is sealed), the 240,000 ha Millstream Chichester National Park is a landscape of spinifex hills, escarpments and tree-lined watercourses. There is also the lush oasis of the Millstream wetlands and Fortescue River pools. The area forms part of the Yindjibarndi homeland and had been a pastoral station, Millstream Station, since 1865. It became a national park in 1970 and was expanded in 1982.
The land around Millstream's water pool supports typical vegetation of the tropical north, such as palms, although introduced species such as date palms and cotton palms have spread out along Millstream Creek. From June to August the winter rains encourage the growth of colourful wildflowers. Black flying foxes, a range of birds and plenty of dragonflies and damselflies are also found around Millstream. Euros are found in the rocky areas and red kangaroos on the plains.
When you visit the park call at the Millstream Homestead Visitor Centre to obtain information on the park’s many features and learn about the interpretative walk trails. The visitor centre, which is normally unattended, has rooms dedicated to the Yindjibarndi people, the early settlers and the natural environment. It offers an important introduction to the park's attractions. There is an excellent, downloadable brochure - https://parks.dpaw.wa.gov.au/sites/default/files/downloads/parks/20140464_MillstreamChichesterNP_v4.pdf - which lists five Millstream Trails and five Chichester Range Trails with information about difficulty levels and attractions.

It was a beautiful spot, however, the trains made it a BIT noisy

I love the white bark and the 'seam' line of the termites looking for food.

Jurg made his own 'tree' he had to hang out his wet suit from diving

Sun is setting, camp set up and fire lit.

The best times are had around a camp fire.

Getting a plant lesson from Dad

On our way to Python Pool in Chichester - my favourite outback flower - the Sturts Desert Pea

Patience

The end result lasted ...... 3 minutes.

Python Pool

lunch spot in a dry, very dry, creekbed.

Then took the Roeburne-Wittenoom Road to Wittenoom a famous asbestos mining town now a genuinely dangerous ghost town. On the way to Wittenoom we were stopped by

a very, very, very long train !!

Wittenoom

Catching the last of the sun.

Someone has to have a flat tyre

That special fire feeling

Just for those of you that miss and love our flies xx - not many today

The 'drive' up Mt Meharry - That's Jurg.

To get to Mt Meharry you have to travel on private property so do the right thing and phone ahead and get permission please. 21 kms in and 1.5 hours driving (Slowly !)

Nearly to the top

Proof that VW's can go to the highest point of W.A. !

Made it

Just a little higher - bit of a wind blowing up here !

Dust blowing

On the way down.

Is slow progress

It doesn't look as bad as it felt !

We head to Newman for fuel and food.

We just had a beer at the Nullagine pub.

We are on the Skull Spring Road heading to Carawine Gorge

Always looking to the ground for rocks !

First bread this trip

Special rising machine - cost a heap, however, it does come in handy as it can be used for other things.

Barefoot in the kitchen

Nope need more coals

Is it ready ?

Yes - Ready !

Perfect for breakfast

Sunrise

Glazier slides

Marble Bar, one of the most famous outback towns in Australia, is a fine example of a pioneering town dating the gold rush days at the end of the nineteenth century. Named after what was originally thought to be a colourful marble bar which crosses the Coongan River, the bar is actually made of jasper. (a highly coloured cryptocrystalline variety of quartz). So, if the original discoverer had been more geologically knowledgable, the town should have been called Jasper Bar.
Today Marble Bar is synonymous with heat. It is known as 'the hottest town in Australia' a fact which is still recorded by the Guinness Book of Records. For 161 consecutive days to 20 April 1924 the temperature in the town never dropped below 100°F (37.8°C). This record still stands after over eighty years. During all the time that records have been kept, the temperature at the town has never dropped below 0°C.
Marble Bar does not fit the preconceptions most visitors have of it. If you imagined a reckless mining town in a barren wasteland, Marble Bar is nothing like that. It has a neatness and tidiness which is decidedly modern and attractive and the main street has a wide, green median strip.

A Poem About Marble Bar
The town has been immortalised in the very funny, but sadly, little known poem The Man from Marble Bar by Victor Courtney.
Satan sat by the fires of Hell
As from endless time he's sat,
And he sniffed great draughts of the brimstone's smell
That came as the tongue-flames spat;
Then all at once the devil looked stern
For there in the depths of Hell
Was a fellow whom never a flame could burn
Or goad to an anguished yell;
So Satan stalked to the lonely scene
And growled with a stormy brow,
'Now, stranger, tell me what does this mean?
You should be well scorched by now.'
But the chappie replied with a laugh quite new;
'This place is too cold by far
Just chuck on an extra log or two
I'VE COME IN FROM MARBLE BAR!'

A must to see Coongan River the colours of the rock are amazing.

http://purl.slwa.wa.gov.au/slwa_b4398765

There are beds in the Spinifex bush shed - must be a good insulation.

We didn't get to go to Corunna downs - next time.

Such beautiful colours when wet.

Coppins Gap
Located 68 km from Marble Bar on the old Shay Gap road is Coppin's Gap, a safe and attractive water hole in a deep cutting. It is edged by eucalypts and tall rock faces. It is a natural beauty spot and is best accessed by 4WD vehicles.